Where We Swim: Explorations of nature, travel and family by Ingrid Horrocks

 

 At its best when talking about family connections and the spaces between us and bonds of love that hold us together. Not "just" a book about swimming. Opens with the author on a solitary journey, and intending to swim alone in various places and keep a Waterlog (like the late author of that wonderful book of that name, Roger Deacon). But it becomes so much more. I like the eclectic swimming places - and even the longing for a swim that cannot happen (in Medellin, Colombia, where someone pooing in the pool at a rented apartment keeps it closed). The "pool" in the Amazon River retreat is simply astounding. 

Horrocks also takes us deep into the global climate crisis and how we react while being middle class privileged folk. I was living in one of the areas of Australia burning in the summer of 2019, sending clouds of smoke across the Tasman. 

It finishes with the impact of Covid lockdown in New Zealand and how people gently connect with strangers when allowed back in the water. 

 

Rosedale "pool"

23 Feb 2015

On the southeast facing point of the small, rocky and pebbly beach, at the tip of the South Rosedale headland, is one of my favourite spots. It's a natural tiny "plunge pool", which under the right conditions, when the tide is "just right" also offers a natural spa experience, as the incoming tide ripples and fizzes.

Here are some pics of the pool as I have captured it over the years. At the moment it is very pebbly, not sandy.

11 Jan 2015

11 Jan 2015

11 Jan 2015 

23 Feb 2015

13 July 2016

11 Feb 2017

11 Feb 2017

1 Jan 2018 - low tide

1 Jan 2018 - low tide

4 Jan 2018 - high tide

4 Jan 2018 - high tide

The "spa" at the edge of the pool. 11 Feb 2017

Darelle and Sally's (disappointing) swimming adventure - Bronte. 13 Feb 2017

Today our aim was Bronte pool. We were met with a closed beach and closed pool, due to heavy surf conditions.

We're in Waverley Council territory now, and so we had to feed the hungry beast. We did manage to find a park in the shade, but it's a very short term stay. 

From 9am to 6pm, September to May, the maximum parking time is 1 hour. Two hours the rest of the year.  There's unrestricted parking further away from the beach, and being the eastern suburbs, long hot climbs up hills after your dip. So, don't drive to Bronte thinking you are going to park close by for a day at the beach. You might need to catch a bus. I think this is the way the locals, as well as the revenue-raising Council quite likes it.

There's a great kids' playground in Bronte Park. The park leads down to the beach. 

Lots of picnic tables and barbecues

Typical weekday crowds

There's the pool tucked under the southern headland....not many people there, we thought. Well, noone as it turned out. 

The area just outside the pool is called the Bogey Hole. Click here to see what it looked like last time I blogged it. 

The surf was roiling and broiling

Here's a video of the surf

Here's another video

A few adventurous souls were taking a dip...not us....there were no safe swimming area flags on the beach, and neither of us is confident enough in strong surf.

Mindful that we only had a half hour on the parking meter before getting a ticket, we went to the kiosk for a coffee. Good coffee, and lots of traditional beach fare - chips and sausage rolls, and ice creams, but chiko rolls seem to have been replaced by Turkish bread sandwiches! There's swankier cafes in the 'hood as well, but the kiosk served us well.

Here's a previous blog from when I swam at Bronte pool once before.  It's a great pool.

Rosedale "pool" and "spa" (again)

In for a dip on a hot day. The water was beautiful.

A spot of "hydrotherapy"

The "spa"

Here is last time I blogged about this spot, in May 2012.

Sally and Darelle's Swimming Adventures: Giles Baths, Coogee 1 December 2016

Coogee Beach in the background. 

The baths open to the sea at the southern side, and the western (facing the beach)

History (from Randwick City Council)

This is a natural rock pool, known as the "Bogey hole" which was used by male bathers in the nineteenth century.

The baths can be rough during strong surf conditions and Lifeguards are often kept busy with first aid for bumps, cuts and bruises. [nb and not so rough as you will see!]

The Giles Gym and baths was built in 1928 and under the management of Mr Oscar Giles, the health centre and hot baths became the progressive fitness venue of the time. They offered

electricity treatments, hydrotherapy and hot sea baths as medical treatments. One of the more bizarre treatments available was the sweat boxes. The boxes were heated by light bulbs on the inside and only had enough room for someone's head to stick out. The heat generated would aid in weight loss, allegedly [more like dehydration!]. 

Separate facilities were provided for both genders but the ocean pool and nude bathing was for men only.

Mr O.E. Giles proved remarkably successful with his weight-reducing massage course. Sportsmen, racing identities, criminals, the constabulary and well known politicians all mixed amiably at Giles baths. Sam Inglis was a well-known patron who regularly taught young boys to swim and box. In honour of his service a memorial sun dial was erected. 

In 1975 Messer's O'Neill, Motta and Stevens leased the premises until 1998. They redeveloped the building and added squash courts but retained the name Giles Baths. 

After 1998 the building was left in disrepair and in the interest of public safety the building was demolished in 2000. All that remains is the original portico entry and sections of the wall.

The steps down the cliff face remind me of North Curl Curl. Handrails and fences have recently been refurbished. There's not a lot of sitting or resting space. Fortunately it wasn't very busy during our visit. 

From the bottom of the steps looking northeast - magnificent Sydney sandstone. 

Getting in. The bottom step was very slippery, and being a bit balance-challenged can be a hazard. Beyond the step is a fairly wide rock platform, which makes it quite shallow from the cliffside out. 

and she's off! 

Of course, groups of boys always like jumping off rocks into water. 

While the sea wasn't particularly rough today, there were quite a few waves come into the pool, and you did have to watch out - easy to be buffetted towards the cliff. 

Randwick Council said lifeguards at the beach are kept busy treating cuts and bruises in high seas. Darelle didn't seek attention for her injury. NB The pool itself doesn't have a lifeguard - the nearest were at the beach.  

Entrance to the baths is through Dunningham Parkat the northern end of Coogee Beach. You can see the baths outlet where the rocks are just under the cliff.The entrance to the baths is the archway on the cliff above.

Coogee Beach from Dunningham Park

Dunningham Park seemed popular with mothers and babies' groups. We had coffee at an unpretentious cafe in the background (that's Darelle in pink headed there.)

Coogee Beach

Coogee Beach with the Pavilion in the background.
Wikipedia: The Coogee Aquarium and Swimming Baths were officially opened on 23 December 1887. The Palace included an indoor Swimming pool (25 x 10 meters), an aquarium featuring the tiger shark from the famous shark arm murder case, a Great Hall that could be used as a roller skating rink, Canadian toboggan ran down the hillside for over 70 meters, a herd of 14 donkeys to ride as well as swings, whirligig's rocking horses, toy boats, aviaries, flower beds, bandstand and an open-air bar.

In June 1945, a strong storm caused the large dome to collapse. In 1987 the Coogee Palace and Dome was re-built and converted to restaurants and bars, known both as The Beach Palace Hotel and The Aquarium. In August 2014 the building re-opened as the Coogee Pavilion, owned by prominent Sydney hospitality company, Merivale (director Justin Hemmes). 

Coogee Aquarium and Swimming Baths - Dictionary of Sydney. 

Peaceful scene through the trees of Dunningham Park

The toilets are clean, smell fresh, have no soap, and are an eyesore plonked in the park. 

Shower

The entrance is what is left of the Giles Baths and Gym

In January 2003, a local claimed to have seen an apparition of the Virgin Mary at the fence overlooking Coogee Beach. Thousands lined up to witness it (see link below) There have been numerous claims of sightings since. The local parish priest said that while he felt it was good some people were finding peace there, he didn't believe it was anything other than an optical illusion. Some locals call it "Our Lady of the Fence Post" or "Rail Mary". A local man tends the shrine. 

The Catholic News, wherein local priest has his say.

The fathers, the sun and the holy post - Sydney Morning Herald report.

The water was so perfect

Marine life which may be seen in the baths

Looking north along that wonderful Sydney sandstone coastline, towards Clovelly.

Memorial to the victims of the 2002 Bali bombing. Several were residents in the local area, and six were members of a local Rugby football club, the Coogee Dolphins.  There's another memorial plaque inside the baths entrance gateway. 

A great spot for reading

Get your heads out of your devices and look up at the beauty before you, kids! 

These trees were in flower. I don't know what they are. Anyone? 

More links:

Removal of 30 tonne rock from pool November 2016

Dictionary of Sydney - Coogee

Dictionary of Sydney - Coogee Aquarium and Swimming Baths

Wikipedia on Coogee